The Cowcross Review


Timeout’s Number 16: Nahm by Pat Kua
March 16, 2008, 10:20 pm
Filed under: Restaurant, Timeout Top 50 2008

I’m always a bit sceptical about restaurants in hotels as they tend to fall into two categories – either extremely overpriced food that’s not very special, or food focused on fresh flavours matched perfectly in ambiance and corresponding price. If you can’t tell, I think most hotel restaurants fall into the former and those in the latter I’ll try to reserve for special occasions. Fortunately for me, I found that Nahm, Timeout’s #16 on the Top 50, falls into the better of these two categories.

Nahm

Nahm, located in the Halkin Hotel just near Hyde Park corner and run by Australian chef David Thompson focuses on providing fresh and authentic Thai foods you won’t find in your local Thai-food offering pub. It may seem strange that an Australian runs this restaurant although once you eat there, it’s obvious that the amount of time Thompson spends in Thailand results in superb offerings infused with traditional flavours and ingredients, some extremely classic, and others much more modern yet all distinctly Thai based.

Squid

My sister found it difficult to appreciate the atmosphere with only four or five other tables seated for the evening. I have to admit a few forces work against the only Michelin-starred Thai restaurant in Europe, such as being Monday night in a swanky hotel, its location on a very quiet street away from Hyde Park corner, all making it difficult for people to stumble across it. I saw it as an opportunity to indulge in the dining atmosphere while resting on our chairs with their small and comfortable pillow in the small of my back.

Sea Bass Green Curry

Nahm offers a tasting menu though I couldn’t really justify eating or paying that much (£45) for my first visit. Fortunately the waitress told us what the best way to order from the menu when going ala carte, and recommended picking a dish from each category focusing on different flavours so that, as a group, we could experience a wealth of sensations and tastes. We ordered four dishes (duck salad, ginger shallot squid, stir fried pork and a seabass green curry) between the three of us and, followed by a round of dessert, literally had us rolling out of the place, completely content and, at least for me, quite impressed by the evening. The two dishes that impressed me the most included the seabass curry and the squid. The curry paste looked like it’d been made relatively fresh and the result was a dish full of flavour and spices that wasn’t at all overpowering. Even the other chilli-wary The Cowcross Review author enjoyed the subtle heat provided by the small chillis sitting in the sauce. The squid impressed me since they’d cooked it perfectly with almost melt in your mouth flesh tinged with the surprisingly strong ginger shallot flavours

Peanut Cluster Dessert

Nahm also offers an overwhelmingly exhaustive wine list and I’m sure that if we were all in the mood to drink, we would have appreciated it. Instead I had one of their signature martinis infused with a spicy ginger flavour that went perfectly with our meal.

I’ll agree with my sister that their presentation isn’t what you’d expect from a Michelin starred restaurant and although presentation matters, I do understand it’s very difficult to make stir fry and curry dishes that presentable without being too ostentatious. I think they made up for it in their amazing desserts, something that you’ll have to try for yourself.

Going back to my original statement, Nahm is a wonderful experience when you can share different flavours with a small group of people though I’ll still look for that special occasion worth going to it for.



JSheekey by Pat Kua
March 13, 2008, 3:52 pm
Filed under: Timeout Top 50 2008

JSheekey, well what to say, no. 30 on the Time Out top 50 list and with our score hitting a very respectable 8/10 for food and 8/10 ambiance.

 

You are transported off the busy streets of London into a humble dining setting. The experience starts at the door as you are let in by a robust yet friendly doorman who wishes you an enjoyable evening. The front of house is manned by a well suited, smiling gentleman who takes your names and points you in the way of the cloakroom, (well a coat rack pushed up against one of the walls). You are then presented with your waiter who guides you to your table. The restaurant is split up into around four dining areas making the whole experience very personal. We were seated at a table for three, sat back in the corner of one of the central dining areas. We looked out over our other diners admiring their food and trying to guess what fish they had ordered. Like its sister restaurant, The Ivy, you are provided with a basket of crusty bread and some butter, but no side dishes, causing confusion for some of our other diners, our hunger got the better of us and we tucked in with crumbs flying all over the table! I ordered the potted shrimp, which I would recommend to anyone, it was delicious and the shrimp was not too buttery which can be a common problem with such a dish, the plate had a friendly helping of shrimp with just the right amount of toasted bread. Such a starter left you looking forward to your main dish. On recommendation from someone who speaks very highly of the restaurant, I had ordered the famous fish pie. The Pie came out in its own ramekin dish and was bursting with a range of fish in a creamy sauce with a nice helping of mash potato on top, a very filling dish meant that I was defeated around half way through, however, I had enjoyed every mouthful. My companion had ordered fish on the bone and it was so meaty and light in a complimentary sauce, I almost had menu envy, but not quite! There is always room for pudding and I ordered the Muscat Jelly, unless you are a fan of Muscat then this is a dish to be wary of, the alcohol level in the jelly was so high that I managed to eat around a quarter of it, each mouthful was followed by the tort face as the alcohol hit my taste buds. My companions had plums and a very rich and sticky toffee pudding, both dishes looked a perfect round off to any meal and we all enjoyed trying each others. The meal was altogether a hit, so much so that the very next day I booked another table for the following weekend.

 

One small grumble that we all had was with regards to the service, on a number of occasions we had to disturb the waiters conversations to ask to be served which was slightly disappointing.

 

All in all a good evening was had by all.



Timeout’s Number 30: J Sheekey by thekua
March 9, 2008, 5:06 pm
Filed under: Restaurant, Timeout Top 50 2008

Like its Caprice owned sister restaurant, The Ivy, J Sheekey sits somewhere between Covent Garden and Leicester square, hidden away from the bustling tourist crowds. Its stain glassed windows obscure any clear view into the building with the top hat wearing doorman being the only attention grabbing feature for the passerby. The plain looking entrance transports you to a completely different world where you feel much less in the middle of a central tourist area and much more in a sophisticated dining environment. The reception area is tiny, with waiters bustling back and forth as they take orders, serve drinks and present food to their guests. The dining area appears split into different rooms, continuing to add to the intimate atmosphere.

J Sheekey is best known for its seafood dishes although they do also serve other types of meats if you’re feeling a touch pesce-phobic. Their dishes focus on doing simple and traditional dishes very well with a few modern takes like the seafood curry and basmati rice. As a table, we gorged ourselves on a large variety of dishes. My starter, the cullen skink thoroughly impressed me. It’s a traditional Scottish fish soup with a thick texture and creamy base highlighting the juicy hunks of haddock throughout. Their presentation bowled me over, with an empty vessel placed on the table filled with the soup from a jug and the waiter positioning a shield between the bowl and myself to prevent splashes.

For my main, I ordered the grilled dover sole, on the bone, with my dining companions both ordering the fish pie. I think the mains pleasantly surprised us all, the fish pie full of different sorts of quality fish and topped with a crunchy crust, and the dover sole perfectly cooked and seasoned, its flesh literally falling off the bone. Even with the smaller of the two sizes, the fish still managed to defeat my appetite. We finished the evening off with a round of dessert including an exceptionally alcoholic muscat jelly moulded to look like a tiny life ring, a very sugary spotted dick, and my tart roasted plums served with almond ice cream helping to clean the palette.

Muscat Jelly

The final thing to note is really about the service. Compared to the excellent service I remembered receiving at The Ivy, the waiter’s poor service truly disappointed me. We had to raise our hands twice to call some attention, the first to order some dessert, and the second time to ask for the bill. Our attempts to make eye contact with the three waiters talking to each other obviously failing. They also cheekily charge a £2 cover for each person for the simple bread and butter.

Dining at J Sheekey is worth it for a great place to eat quality seafood, lovingly cooked and presented although they do need to work on their service if they expect it to be worth the 12.5% they charge.